Category: Home Painting

Peeling and scratching off layers of old wallpaper may render the walls beneath coated in adhesive. Worse, it may leave them scarred from your efforts to eliminate every last shred of paper. Before you can paint over these wounded surfaces, then you must return them to perfect smoothness. As with most finishing jobs, preparation is crucial for painting, and also the level of your paint project depends upon the time and effort that you put into patching and sealing.

Dilute 5 oz of wallpaper stripper in 1 gallon of water. Fill a pump sprayer using the mix. Spray the walls together with the mix. Scrape any residue and wallpaper scraps off the walls with a broad scraper knife.

Empty the pump sprayer and refill it with fresh water. Spray the walls to rinse them. Scrub the surface with a wet sponge to remove any remaining residue. Allow the walls to dry for one to two days.

Sand the walls using a sanding block wrapped in 120-grit sandpaper. Apply a coat of oil-based paint to the walls using a roller. The oil-based paint acts as a sealant to lock in any grease stains, stains or water-based adhesive so they do not float after to interfere with the paint job. Enable the paint to dry.

Analyze the walls for flaking or loose bits of paint. If you discover any, sand them off. Repaint the areas together with the oil-based paint and a paintbrush.

Fill any tiny holes, cracks or dents in the surface with joint compound. Apply compound into the holes using a putty knife, then use the knife to scrape off the excess. When the joint compound is dry, then you’re ready to paint the walls.

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Mesh-mounted mosaic tiles also make installation a snap if you’re covering large spaces like a backsplash. However, mosaic artists and crafters who want to utilize individual tiles need to separate the tiles from the mesh to cut and work with them. Removing tile from mesh takes time but is not hard.

Cut the tiles apart using sharp scissors. This method works well for opaque tiles, since you won’t have the ability to observe the mesh via the tile . But as the remaining mesh on the back of the tile provides a tiny amount of height, don’t forget to take that into account when forming your mosaic design. If your tiles are translucent, use another method so the mesh won’t show through.

Soak the tile sheets — most come in 1-foot squares — in a bowl of warm water to which you’ve added a drop of dishwashing liquid. Usually 15 to 30 minutes is sufficient to soften the adhesive holding the tiles to the mesh. This way is not ideal, because the adhesive is strong enough that the tiles won’t simply drop off the mesh; you’ll have to manually scrape them, and frequently bits of adhesive residue will adhere to the tiles, and that you’ll have to eliminate so they don’t interfere with your own design. Spread the wet tiles in a single layer on a drop cloth to let them dry completely.

Pry off the tiles one by one with your fingers. Based on the manufacturer, this method may be easier or harder than soaking. Start at one corner of this sheet and then carefully pry off the first tile, holding on to the mesh with your other hand to prevent leaving bits of mesh relegated into the back of the tile. If you do this carefully enough with the first row, then the upcoming rows will be much easier to eliminate. It requires time, but using this method, you wind up with clean tiles without a glue or mesh residue clinging to them.

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Plaster walls offer numerous exciting decorating chances, from background to fresh paint jobs to installing interior decorative panels. Irrespective of your selection, the plaster walls have to be totally clean and stable, and oftentimes that involves removing old paint from the outside. The porous nature of plaster may make this a challenging endeavor, so begin with the simplest method and work your way through products and solutions until you find the one that works for you.

Scraping

The easiest way to remove old paint, if it’s already loosened, chipped or peeling, is using a putty knife, plastic scraper or a oscillating tool with rigid scraper blade. Only work the horizontal edge of the tool across the surface of the wall to remove loosened pieces of paint. Cleanup will be easier if you lay a drop cloth under your work area to catch the small parts of paint that fall out of the wall. Simply scraping will remove the majority of loosened paint; small areas can be taken care of using fine-grit sandpaper fitted to a rotary or oscillating tool. Use only the horizontal edge of the scraper, or you could gouge the surface; should you do, fill in the damaged areas with joint compound.

Chemical Stripper

If the paint hasn’t loosened on its own over time, you have little choice except to utilize chemical paint strippers to loosen the paint to you. These strippers contain extremely strong chemicals that may discolor or mar any surface if left too long, and therefore must be applied carefully. Paint the stripper onto a small space of your wall using a paintbrush and let it sit on the outside for about five minutes, unless otherwise instructed by the product’s manufacturer instructions. When the stripper has had time to operate, scrape the loosened paint from the surface. Repeat applications as necessary before all paint is removed.

Homemade Stripper

If you do not want to utilize professional stripping products, you may create your own homemade paint stripper; this will require a bit longer, but if you’ve got all the ingredients anyway, it will save you a trip to the store. To create your own chemical stripper, combine 5 parts denatured alcohol, 3 parts mineral spirits and 1 part acetone. This mix of solvents will loosen the paint from the plaster without causing serious damage. Employ and scrape until all paint is gone.

Neutralizing

Whether you utilize homemade or professional paint stripper, you need to wash out the plaster surface then to neutralize the compounds in the mix. These substances can seep in the plaster surface and cause discoloration swelling or even damage and lack of structural support. Wipe down the whole wall with a sponge dampened in clean cool water. Rinse out the sponge after every pass on a small section of the wall to ensure that each area is covered with clean water.

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The more dogs at the house, the more cleaning has to be done in order to keep the errant hair, dust and dirt to a minimum. While it may not be sensible to keep these four-legged relatives confined to a single area or part of the house, easy regular maintenance, such as regular fur cleaning, reduces the mess otherwise left behind furniture, bedding, floors and everywhere in between.

Grooming Equals Less Brooming

Grooming the puppies often helps cut down on float-away fur that seems to take over the entire house. Brushing every dog for approximately five minutes per day removes loose hair until it falls on its own, resulting in considerably less hair on the ground, on rugs and furniture, or even at the puppies’ beds. Along with your canine friends just could enjoy their sessions beneath the brush. For dog breeds with long, thick coatings, spending a little additional time with all the brush treatment helps detangle the fur.

Grounds for Stress

Sweeping and vacuuming the floors frequently helps keep dog-based dust and hair to a minimum. Carpeting and rugs, particularly plush varieties, trap those materials deep inside their woven fibers. Besides the dust and hair in those fur magnets, the carpets and rugs finally smell like dogs in dire need of a bath. Remove rugs and carpeting from the house for less trapped-in fur and grime, if possible — hard surfaces such as tile and wood floors may show the fur and dirt readily, but they are also much easier to wash. A broom works well for easy fur removal a lot of the time.

Fur-niture, Refreshed

Upholstered furniture also functions as a fur magnet in the house, whether the puppies are allowed to grow up to join their human family to get a little comfort. Vacuum the furniture frequently to keep it clean rather than furry. At a pinch, a rubber swab rubbed over the fabric helps pick up hair, as does a sticky lint roller or piece of packaging tape wrapped sticky-side on your own hand. To lessen the amount of fur and dust on Fido-friendly furniture, then keep a dogs-only blanket in their favorite lounging spot on the couch; this way the fur is confined to a single area. Regularly wash off the blanket, in addition to any other dog bedding in the house. This will also help cut down on odors.

Bathing that the Beauties

Whether the dogs enjoy it or not, bathing cuts down on the amount of dander and odor they emit. This is important if anyone in the house has asthma or pet-triggered allergies, even as dander is an allergen that may trigger these health problems. Bathing keeps a dog relatively dander-free for approximately three days normally, according to Health.com, therefore this means regular washings to your fur-laden pals.

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You may make your fascia stones called stone stone or veneer cladding, from precast and concrete molds. The expression of your fascia stones is dependent on the shape of foundation colors, the molds and pigments you utilize. Your very own artistic flair in the way pigments are applied to the molds individualizes your own work. Add other aggregate or Perlite, like stone rock or shale, to the concrete mix.

Protect Your Clothing

Wear an apron, dust mask and goggles to protect yourself and your clothes from your dust of Portland cement and Perlite.

Rub petroleum jelly in your arms from irritating your skin, to prevent dust.

Put on waterproof gloves to protect your hands, or rub on your palms liberally with oil jelly, making certain to get the jelly beneath your fingernails as well.

Educate Your Molds

Lay your mold on a sheet of plywood for easy handling.

Fill a spray bottle with water and mist the mold thoroughly.

Dip a pigment brush into the desired color and apply pigment to one stone mold at one time. Glue the sides of every mold as well as the bottom. Mix colors or apply unique colors to mold, ussing a separate brush for each color. Be certain where they fulfill to get a look, in a mold, to blend colors. Leave areas of the mold with no pigment if you want the cement color to show through.

Mix Your Concrete

Place 5 gallons of water into your concrete mixer. If you’re currently using color additives add foundation color to your water. Follow the instructions together with the color product for the amount. Mix well.

Pour 47 pounds — half a bag, if you’re using luggage — to the mixer of Portland cement.

Add 5 liters of sand to the mixer, and then place half bag, or the 47 pounds, of Portland cement to the mixer.

Turn on the mixer, and allow the sand and cement until it has reached a lean consistency, or to blend for one minute.

Pour 5 gallons of Perlite. Perlite absorbs water, which means that your mix may become stiff. Add water as needed to keep your mix. Add another 5 liters of Perlite to the mix, Following the first Perlite addition is blended into the formula. Continue adding water and Perlite until all 25 pounds of Perlite are added to the mix. The consistency of the end product should be just like a stiff batter, not stiff enough to hold its shape, but not watery.

Fill Your Molds

Dump concrete onto the molds. Distribute the concrete evenly over the mold form, eliminating excess using a trowel.

Shake the mold form for 30 to 45 seconds, by hand, or to get 10 seconds on a table. Because Perlite can split into layers, so weakening your stones it is important not to shake the mold form long, together with excess vibration when you utilize Perlite on your mix.

Roughen the surface of the concrete by running a large hair pick over the stones. This rough surface is the back of the stone, making it adhere during use as fascia.

Heal the Stones

Wrap your mold in plastic and place it aside to cure for 24 hours.

Upwrap the mold form and eliminate fascia stones.

Cover your stones in plastic again. Store them to allow them to harden and heal. Properly cured stones are harder and more durable than stones that aren’t given adequate time to heal.

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Although moss gives a beautiful aesthetic to a garden landscape, it isn’t so attractive when it covers the deck. Since moss does not have any roots, it may develop freely on sidewalks, decks and roofing. Moss also rises at a rapid pace, quickly covering a great portion of your deck if it is not eliminated. This is dangerous as it may leave the deck slippery. Eliminating the moss is simply the initial step in dealing with it. You also must take action to maintain the moss from coming back.

Remove any furniture, toys or barbecue equipment in the deck before taking measures to eliminate the moss.

Mix half of a gallon of hot water and half a gallon of sodium hypochlorite (chlorine bleach) at a garden sprayer. Spray straight over the moss on your deck so that the moss is soaked entirely with the option. Wait 30 seconds before continuing.

Dip a brush in a bucket of water and then bathe the moss loose. You will not require much elbow grease, as the moss will appear without much work.

Clean the deck with a power washer. This will eliminate any moss that still stays on the deck, in addition to the bleach option you implemented earlier.

Trim back any branches that are preventing sunlight from reaching your own deck. Moderate to intense shade offers moss with the states it should grow. Adding sunlight makes the deck less vulnerable to the moss.

Sweep your deck often during the autumn months when the leaves begin to fall from the trees. The University of Minnesota Extension recommends removing this kind of organic material in order to decrease the chances of moss returning to your deck.

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Splintering edges in your hardwood floor can lead to serious harm, both to the floor and for your bare feet. Any splitting or splintered areas needs to be repaired immediately to prevent further damage, such as large chipped and peeled areas. Identifying the cause of the splintering can help you prevent it from happening again.

Keep It Dry

Moisture that comes in contact with the hardwood planks, whether at the time of installation or later on, can make the edges to splinter since the wood swells. This moisture can come from a cement slab under the floor, which is why it’s critical to utilize a moisture barrier when installing a hardwood floor. Excess moisture can also come from spills, water leaks and extra humidity in your property. Verify the planks for any signs of water damage, mold or decay.

Four Seasons

Hardwood floors frequently expand and contract as the seasons change. During the summer, the planks swell slightly due to greater humidity and heat. In the winter , they shrink due to cold and lack of moisture. Under normal circumstances, this does not result in splintering, but planks made of inferior excellent wood or that were badly finished may begin splitting at the edges, where they have been cut, since this is the poorest aspect of this board. If the planks are installed too tightly and do not have space to expand and contract, they might also begin to buckle and splinter.

Wear and Tear

Over time, the finish on a hardwood floor can deteriorate. With no protective finish, the wood becomes hypersensitive to moisture and temperature changes, which leads to splintering. The planks may also loosen and shift slightly each time you walk across them, causing them to rub each other. Eventually this will make the edges to fray and splinter.

Big Changes

Humidity levels or temperatures which may not otherwise hurt hardwood floors can cause swelling and splintering when they change suddenly. By way of example, a rapid change between a warm, humid environment to a warm, dry one can create the hardwood to split and splinter at the edges. Gradually increase or decrease temperatures and use a humidifier, or a dehumidifier, as necessary to maintain humidity levels fairly even.

Rough Cut

If a hardwood board isn’t cut correctly, it can splinter at the edges. Make sure that the saw blade is sharp and you also make a clean, straight cut. Because most splintering appears at the point where the blade exits the wood, cut together with the finished face, so that any splintering is in the part of the board that will confront the subfloor.

Fix It

If the splintering is minor, it is possible to fix it by carefully removing any dust or debris and then placing a little dab of wood glue in the splintered area. Press the splintered pieces into position and let the adhesive dry. Fill gaps with wood filler. If the splintering is intense, you might have to replace the board.

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Staining your picnic table allow it to blend with your outdoor decor, but that is not the principal intention of stain. As it’s formulated to resist sunlight and moistureand stain helps your table last longer. To get this benefit, however, you need to cover the table thoroughly.

No Sanding Needed

Examine the table for moisture content by sprinkling a few drops of water on the surface. If the wood absorbs them easily, the table is dry, but should they bead up, wait a few days before sealing the wood with stain. Once you’re sure the wood is dry, wipe the table with a moist rag, since new wood tables are often coated with a fine layer of wood dust. There should not be any requirement to sand your new table.

Stain the Underside First

Lay plastic sheeting on the floor and turn the table over — you will need help for this. Stain the undersides of their camel and benches, in addition to the legs and legs, by applying the stain using a paintbrush. Wipe off any stain that’s been consumed after about 5 minutes using a rag to keep color uniformity. Turn the table erect when you are done with the bottom and stain the cover of the table, then the seats, in addition to the borders and end grain. Allow the table dry overnight before applying it.

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Among home paint jobs, painting over powder-coated steel may seem the most frightening for the do-it-yourselfer. This work really does not need to be this tricky. A little basic prep work and cautious paint choice will likely have your powder-coated steel cabinets, furniture and entry doors seeming bright and brand new in no time.

Prep Work

If you’re able to, move the work to a tidy, well-ventilated space, or outdoors. Clean powder-coated surfaces thoroughly with all-purpose cleaner. If grime or grease remains, use mineral spirits and also medium steel wool to eliminate it. If the surface has peeling or delicate paint — it scratches with a fingernail — eliminate it with a putty knife or a razor blade scraper. Smooth the remaining paint and then give it a scratchy texture with 220-grit sandpaper. Sand rusty surfaces to bare metal, then wipe with mineral spirits.

Prime

Wash, powder-coated surfaces don’t require priming. Prime rusty surfaces with metal primer. Prime, too, surfaces with stubborn grease and grime. You don’t need to prime the entire job, just the affected regions. Pick light, light or dark primer to approximate the value of your top coat. Spray primers result in fast work and fast drying. Use exterior primer for exterior surfaces, such as steel entry doors.

Spray Painting

Painting with cans of satin, satin or gloss spray paint makes it easy, fast work that rather approximates the appearance of new powder-coated steel. Read the label instructions regarding temperature recommendations, drying times and other details about your goods. Holding the can 10 to 12 inches in the work, start spraying the surface off before spraying the true bit, moving the could from 1 end of the work until you’re off the surface in the opposite end. Repeat for complete reporting. Use the paint in several thin layers to cut back sags and drips.

Brushing

If you can not move your work to a ventilated place, spraying may not be sensible. Use latex paint along with a synthetic brush, applying the paint in long, smooth strokes. On steel entry doors, use a brush and exterior latex paint to approximate the painted finish of a wooden door. Brush “with the grain” — where the grain could be about a wood door — for a realistic, hand-painted wood appearance. On cabinets and furniture, brush on doors and sides, and horizontally — or left right — about tops and drawer fronts.

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Faux paint techniques allow you to make an illusion in your walls. Paint any fake finish, from marble to wood grain into Venetian plaster, with textured paint and easy tools. Cover a library, bedroom or dining room wall using a synthetic suede finish by employing a specially textured paint along with specific application patterns, or even a synthetic finishing technique that mimics suede. The results play and absorb with light. Soften the wall colour, and give the feeling of a brushed leather surface. Anyone who has painted a wall before can utilize this technique. But open the windows and make sure adequate ventilation before you begin.

Brush Technique for Faux Suede Paint

Clean and stain walls before starting. Fill cracks, holes or gouges with plaster and sand smooth when dry. Wipe down grimy or dusty walls using a dry cloth and then a moist sponge or a sponge soaked in a 1:1 ratio of a water and vinegar solution.

Tape the edges of this washed dry wall before priming it using latex interior paint. A light shade prime coat will not affect the shade of suede paint you choose.

Apply the first coat of suede paint using a paint roller. Start by edging in the corners and the angles in window and door frames and the ceiling with a little brush. Work in small sections to roll up the suede paint on the wall using a medium-size roller, applying paint in overlapping V-shapes. Combine each section with the previous one since you cover the whole wall.

Allow the first coat to dry thoroughly. It will look somewhat streaky and patchy — exactly the way you want it to appear. Apply another coat using a 3-inch brush, starting in one top corner and then working outward to cover the wall.

Crisscross your brush strokes as you apply the second coat — quite important. Make your pattern random and blend each “X” to the wet paint next to it. Both irregular paint application patterns help to create the illusion of texture to the wall when the paint is dry.

Eliminate the painter’s tape while the paint is still wet so you do not risk pulling away any dried paint using the tape. Let the wall dry for 24 hours.

Adapting Ragging Technique to Create Faux Suede

Modify a rag technique to approximate the appearance of suede paint on your walls, using ordinary wall paint. Prepare the walls as you would for any paint job: clean and stain them, filling any cracks or holes with plaster and sanding the dried patches smooth, and tape the edges along ceiling, baseboards and trim having low-adhesive painter’s tape.

Prime the walls using a soft, matte shade with hexagonal inside paint. Neutrals allow the topcoat colour dominate the wall; a coloured prime coat tints or reveals through a thinned surface coat. Let the primer dry before ragging the next coat of paint.

Thin matte latex paint to make a wash concerning the consistency of glue to produce the suede effect. Brush the wash above one little section of the wall at one time, moving the brush in overlapping massive X-shapes to prevent a uniform appearance.

Bunch a clean rag and then dab it in the wet wash fast, before the paint has a opportunity to dry. Use a light touch the rag will eliminate some of this paint, leaving a softly mottled, irregular finish. Change the direction of this rag and shake out and re-bunch the rag to prevent creating a discernible pattern on the wall.

Overlap the next coat of wash, taking care that you don’t produce a thick or hard border of shade where the two sections meet. Continue ragging every new wash of colour over the whole wall. Change to a new clean rag if the one you’re using gets overly saturated with paint.

Eliminate the painter’s tape while the paint is still wet or moist to prevent any disturbance of this faux finish. The water-based paint finish should be thoroughly dry within hours.

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