Category: Eclectic Homes

A sliding door relies on a upper and lower monitor, together with rollers that keep it in place, to slide back and forth. If the trail is gummed up with dirt and grime, or the monitors and rollers are broken or damaged, no quantity of lubrication will resolve that problem. Successfully lubricating a sliding door may only be achieved when each of the parts are clean and have not been compromised at all.

Wash the monitors, both upper and lower, before applying any sort of lubrication. Vacuum the tracks out to remove hair, insects, stones or whatever else which may impede the trackways. An old toothbrush works well for breaking up clumps of dirt prior to vacuuming. Spray some lubricant onto a rag and wipe down the tracks as soon as they’ve been vacuumed. A petroleum-based spray lube will remove oil and grime deposits faster and more efficiently than water and soap.

Check and adjust the rollers if applicable. If the door goes “bump, bump, bump” since it’s being opened or closed, among the lower roller wheels is broken. It will have to be replaced before the doorway may be successfully lubricated. If the door grinds on the lower monitor when it’s being moved, the roller needs to be adjusted lower so that it pushes the door upwards. To do so, turn the adjusting screw at the base of the door between the track rails. Turning the screw clockwise enhances the wheel and increases the doorway. Turning the screw counterclockwise enhances the wheel and lowers the doorway. Backing out the screw completely lets you take out the wheel entirely for replacement.

Spray lubricant on the tracks and wheels but do not wipe it off. A oil based lube will work better, but it is going to also pull dirt. A silicone-based lubricant will probably be adequate and won’t attract dirt. Should you clean your sliding door tracks and rollers regularly, choose a petroleum-based lubricant. If you don’t clean the sliding door tracks and rollers regularly, or the sliding doors are not used very frequently, choose a silicon-based lubricant.

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There are several types of carpet-to-floor transitions used to finish the edges of carpeting. Some types are concealed beneath the carpet while some are in plain view. Most carpet transitions mount to the ground using a fastener specific to the kind of existing subfloor. Identifying the kind of transition you have poses the biggest hurdle if you would like to eliminate it. Z-bars, metal clampdowns, flat metallic strips and tack strips are the most frequent sorts of carpet-to-floor transitions.

Remove a Z-bar by setting a flat pry bar below the edge of the carpeting and floor together the transition and gently applying pressure to appear on the carpet edge. The Z-bar is a metallic strip installed below a piece of tack strip. The edge of the carpet is secured under the edge along the strip. During setup, the carpet is tucked under the protruding edge and hammered down to secure it in place. Once the transition is loosened, use your hands to pull the edge of the carpet out and away from the Z-bar.

Remove a metallic clampdown using a small pry bar to propagate the clamp transition where it meets the carpeting. Teeth in the edge of the metallic transition bite to and hold the carpet in place. Once the transitions are set up, the carpet is cut accordingly and placed in the transition, which is then bent over to secure the edge of the carpeting. To eliminate this kind of carpet transition, then you have to first bend back the finished edge of this transition and eliminate the carpet to expose the fasteners. Remove any nails or screws that secure the clamp to the ground, using a screwdriver or hammer.

Remove flat metallic strips by removing the fasteners that secure the strip into the ground. The metallic strip works simply by covering the flux between the carpeting and ground and securing it with fasteners. You will need either a hammer or screwdriver to remove the fasteners. Removing them will release the metallic strip.

Remove tack strip transitions by pulling the edge of the carpet from the ground edge to expose the tack strip. Place a pry bar between the ground and the tack strip and tap with a hammer to eliminate. In rare cases, the tack strip is fastened to the ground with screws. In this case, you may need to pull the carpet back far enough from the tack strip to obtain access to the mounting screws. Remove the screws with a screwdriver to publish the strip.

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The interior of your concrete swimming pool will wear over time, becoming unsightly. Resurfacing a run-down swimming pool can drastically alter your pool’s look for the better. Plaster and pebble finishes are alternatives for redesigning a tired in-ground concrete swimming pool. The type of pool-resurfacing material you select will affect the cost of redoing your own pool. Pool resurfacing isn’t a do-it-yourself endeavor; it is best left to the professionals.

Plastered Pool

Plaster, also known as marcite, is actually the least expensive pool-resurfacing material. However, additionally, it is relatively short, giving seven to ten years of service if cared for. Pool plaster is made of white cement mixed with marble sand or finely pulverized stone. This material is spread by hand and sets with a smooth, white finish but looks a brilliant light blue when under water. Plaster can also be coloured. A recent edition on pool plaster adds finely ground quartz into the mixture to add a sheen to the pool’s surfaces.

Plaster’s Drawbacks

Plaster’s porous surface is its major drawback. The porous surface is vulnerable to staining and readily supports bacterial and algae growth. Porous plaster also absorbs common pool sanitizing and water conditioning chemicals, demanding that you use additional chemicals to keep correct water chemistry compared to if you’d like other, less-porous pool-surfacing materials. There are additives that boost plaster’s resistance to pool chemicals, etching, mottling and cracking, but these add to the cost of a pool-resurfacing job.

Pebble Complete

A pebble surface is made of pool plaster or Portland hydraulic cement combined with polished stone seams so the pebbles form the majority of the pool’s surface area. It is pneumatically applied, then hand-wiped or even water-blasted to show the upper layer of seams. A pebble finish will last much longer than a plain plaster finish, giving you 12 to 20 years of support. Pebble surfaces are nonporous, meaning they do not absorb pool chemicals and they resist staining and algae growth. And you’ll be able to pick a variety of naturally coloured seams to add visual interest to your pool.

Costly Option

A pebble surface is a costly choice, running about double the cost of a straightforward plaster finish. In addition, it presents a rough surface that could be unpleasant to walk on. And it is hard on automatic pool cleaners that implement any kind of mopping or wiping actions. Some pool companies offer a pebble surface that uses very small pebbles to get a smoother finish.

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Only 1 thing is worse than ice cream that’s so rock-hard which you can not scoop this, and that’s runny, goopy, melted iced cream. When ice cream is delicate, it means that the temperature in the freezer is not low, and there are a variety of simple reasons why this could be. When correcting simple problems does not work, you have to move to more complex ones caused by malfunctioning parts, improper maintenance or both.

Start with the Basics

Of course, you remembered to plug the unit in, right? In that case, check the breaker to your refrigerator circuit — it may have triggered. Once you’re sure you’ve got power, check the temperature controller — it may be set too warm. Consider turning the temperature down. Open and close the refrigerator door; whether it is a side or freezer-on-top model, the blast of air if you do this occasionally makes the freezer pop pop open. In that case, now you know the problem, you may just offer the freezer door a push each time you close the refrigerator. Unplug the refrigerator, pull it out from the wall and then clean the condenser coils with a coil cleaning brush and a vacuum to improve deep performance.

More About Those Door Gaskets

The freezer may not seal properly when the refrigerator or freezer is off-level; when it is leaning forwards, the door may remain somewhat ajar, even when you think it’s shut. Put a flat on top of the unit and lift the front 1/4 inch higher than the back by adjusting the leveling feet; this job is simpler if you prop the unit up with a crowbar along with your free hand as you screw them up or down as required. Another reason behind door gasket to fail is because it is dirty. GE recommends cleaning it with a solution consisting of 1 part baking soda to 3 parts water and applying paraffin wax — maybe not candle wax — to the section nearest the seams.

All Frosted Up

A pair of coils on the other side of the freezer provides the heat power, and the refrigerant which always circulates inside them disappears because it passes these coils. Evaporation is an endothermic reaction which pulls heat from the freezer, yet this process is hindered if the coils are frosted over. You may see the coils by pulling the refrigerator away from the wall and looking behind it. If your freezer is just a manual-defrost model, then it is time to defrost. When it’s an auto-defrost model, then something is wrong with the defrost controls, like a malfunction from the internal circuitry.

Equipment Malfunction

The condenser motor drives the refrigerant through the coil system, and it must cycle off and on reliably to your freezer to get cold. A temperature sensor known as a thermistor informs the condenser when to come on. To test it, turn the temperature control all the way off and then all of the way on and listen for a click. If you do not hear you, either check the thermistor for continuity yourself or find an expert to do it. Other elements of he refrigerator which may malfunction include the circuitry within the main control panel, the condenser itself and the beginning relay, which sends electricity to the condenser. It’s ideal to hire a pro to handle one or more of these problems.

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If you’ve got a deeded timeshare that you need to market, you’ve got one factor working in your favor: You own a portion of the property. Harder to market are timeshares, that are essentially leases that expire after a period of decades. Before you put your timeshare available on the current market, you have to determine whether you will sell the property yourself or employ a timeshare reselling business. So that you can answer questions knowledgeably for potential 25, you will also have to collect as much helpful information about the property as possible.

Organize for a property appraisal. Get an accurate appraisal value of the timeshare by calling a reputable timeshare appraisal service that’s licensed in the state in which the property is situated. Ask about the appraisal cost; if the cost appears too large, be more wary. Contact appraisers to receive a quote, In case you have concerns about the price.

Make a list of nearby attractions and the property features to entice buyers to buy the timeshare. You ought to be aware of the size of their property, amenities, yearly maintenance fees and how often the owners will have access to the property.

List the property available online at one of the many timeshare selling and buying websites. Before agreeing to the terms and conditions of the site, make sure that you research each business thoroughly to make sure they’re reputable. Check for charges in the fine print.

Place ads on Craigslist or at the local newspaper’s holiday property section. You can also place advertisements at the resort itself to attract visitors who may be interested in buying their own timeshare at the resort.

Think about working with a timeshare freelancer — especially if you are experiencing a tricky time selling the timeshare on your own. The U.S. Federal Trade Commission advises clients to proceed with caution due to the large number of unethical timeshare resellers in the marketplace. To ensure you are doing business with a reputable reseller, check the credentials of your agent; he must really be licensed in the state in which the timeshare is located. You should also contact the Better Business Bureau and the state attorney general’s office to ask about business complaints.

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Selling a house requires sellers to not only prepare their homes for the market, but also to entice buyers to consider taking a look at the home. Buyers have many homes from which to choose, and sellers often have only 1 chance to impress a purchaser. Homes that are priced well and at the ideal condition have no lack of buyers in today’s market. A few tips can help homeowners bring buyers and market their homes.

Pricing

Pricing is more important for buyers than previously, and homes that are priced well draw the buyers. Home sellers should study the market by looking at current information for homes which have sold in their neighborhood to help ascertain the list price. Sellers should buy their homes at or just below market value to ensure a quick sale at the highest price the market will bear, according to HGTV.com.

Make Repairs

Before putting your house on the market, make any minor repairs which could give buyers second thoughts about the house, according to HouseLogic.com. For a few hundred dollars, a seller can hire an inspector to find any flaws or potential problems in the house. Having an inspection report, sellers are able to fix issues that could potentially violate a sales contract. Moreover, making small repairs throughout the house can provide buyers the impression that the home is well-maintained.

Staging

Staging your home to improve its positive features is just another selling hint. Sellers should seek the services of a stager or arrange their furniture to maximize the space. Another tip in making your house look its best while on the market is to eliminate clutter, organize storage spaces and depersonalize by eliminating most of your personal belongings and trinkets, according to House Logic. Sellers can make their rooms and cabinets feel bigger by eliminating extra furniture and half of their belongings in closets and rooms. Keeping the house light by opening the blinds and drapes can also help your house sell.

Showing

To sell your house, it has to be ready and looking its best all of the time in case buyers wish to tour the house. Keeping it spotless and tidy can help sell the house by making a great first impression about the buyers, according to HGTV. Additionally, eliminating kids and pets in the house can ease showings and prevent buyers from thinking the home is not clean and in inferior condition. Vendors should be flexible to adapt revealing appointments and have the home ready to show.

Curb Appeal

Spruce up front of the home and the landscaping. When buyers arrive for an appointment, this is their first impression of the house. Sellers are advised to make any repairs on the front part of the home and recondition outside surfaces by repainting and cleaning, according to State Farm. Additionally, a fresh coat of paint on the front door will enhance the look of the house. The landscape should be trimmed, and sellers should consider planting a few trees and blossoms to highlight marketing photographs and enhance the curb appeal.

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Designers everywhere are embracing honeycomb as the bee’s knees. This simple geometric pattern can cozy up a traditional space or breathe a little energy to a contemporary one. Bring a bit of nature’s distinctive design in your home with this roundup of contemporary honeycomb accessories. — Beth from The Modern Home

YLiving.com

Japanese Cowhide Rug – $1,560

Here’s a great twist on the standard cowhide rug: hexagons! The one thing that can make this better is using each one be another piece. Carpet tiles are really suitable for so many reasons, such as flexibility with design, simple cleanup, etc..

CB2

Coup Clover Pillow – $14.95

With bold colors and a graphic pattern, the Coup Pillows from CB2 will cheer up any dull space.

CB2

Hive White Storage Unit – $99.95

The exceptionally reviewed Hive Storage Unit from CB2 would look fantastic in multiples.

Walter

Hex Paintable Wall Decor – $42

These hexagon wall applications are all primed and ready to be painted on your preferred color. I’d love to put in a small set of yellow ones running the length of the hallway.

The Modern Shop

Lacquer Hexagon Tray by Jonathan Adler – $217

Organize your stuff or serve your guests with Jonathan Adler’s Lacquer Hexagon Tray. The tray is sold in six vibrant colors, and I would hard-pressed to pick a favorite.

India Rose

Honeycomb Doormat – $42

I have a friend who recently remodeled a wonderful small midcentury modern ranch, and this rug would add a fine finishing touch with his entry. The hexagon pattern and vivid orange color give this contemporary doormat a cool retro vibe.

Lighting-Buy

Honeycomb Green Ceramic Vase

Add a pop of green with this contemporary honeycomb vase from Urban Trends Collection.

West Elm

DbO Home Botanical Vase – $24

This pretty vase takes me back to my own days in art course. The mould was created via a relief technique using actual honeycomb pressed into the clay. It provides me a “why didn’t I think think of this?” feeling.

1stdibs

by Ronan & Erwa

The Quilt Chair from Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec looks so soft and squishy. It would be ideal for curling up with a novel.

The Rug Company

“Honeycomb” Rug

If only I had the money to spend on the Honeycomb rug by Tara Bernerd. It’s amazing, but it’s definitely out of my budget.

Madegoods

Cole Object

Want to bring a small luxe to your decor? These golden, honey-colored dodecahedrons would look lovely on a table or shelf.

Linens ‘n Things

Baxton Studio Honeycomb Modern Dining Chair – $342.99

Offered in transparent red or clear Lucite, these acrylic seats would make a exceptional addition to your dining room.

Plushpod

Honeycomb Desk – $8,360

Yes, this Honeycomb Desk is $8K, but it’s slick. I will give them.

Träullit Dekor

Träullit Dekor Hexagon

Though they’re not just soft, I feel these sound-proofing hexagons would make a fantastic padded-room effect.

IKEA

Hönefoss Mirror – $14.99

Hönefoss hexagonal mirrors are modular and can be customized however you’d like.

Acme Party Box

Silvered Chisel Votive – $18

The silver-plated honeycomb pattern provides an elegant touch to those tiny glass votives.

FastFloors.com

Porcelain Hexagon Mosaic, White – $4.04

A hexagon floor tile is a wonderful alternate to cent round tiles. I favor simple white porcelain, but I have seen several beautiful mosaic styles.

West Elm

Honeycomb Bath Accessories – $4

These beautiful ceramic bath accessories from West Elm are fairly subtle using the texture and would look great in any bathroom.

Luceplan

Honeycomb Light

The Honeycomb Light from Luceplan might be a little too industrial for a few tastes, but I think that it would look pretty sweet hanging over my table.

Williams-Sonoma

Nordic Ware Honeycomb Cake Pan – $36

Do not wish to make a permanent commitment to honeycomb on your decor? Instead, enjoy a tasty honeycomb-shaped cake with this particular cake mould from Williams-Sonoma. Yum!

Next: Designing With Nature’s Perfect Form

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A water softener brine injector modulates the circulation of saltwater from the brine tank to the water treatment medium which removes minerals from the water. The saltwater flushes accumulated vitamins in the treatment medium, regenerating the medium to treat water. The injector, typically situated on the top or to one side of the softener control mind, can become clogged over time. In most cases, a fantastic cleaning may restore it to normal operation.

Injector Parts

The injector is made up of cylindrical filter screen where saltwater from the brine tank enters, together with a throat and control wax which regulates the flow of salt brine to the treatment medium. The pieces are held in place from the injector housing by a circular, oval or rectangular gasketed cover plate secured by two screws. Before starting work, then disconnect the softener from the water source by closing the in and out service valves and opening the bypass valve. Unplug the softener from its electricity source. Briefly turn the manual control to the backwash position to relieve water pressure from the unit.

Cleaning Procedure

Undo the screws holding the injector cover plate on and remove the plate and gasket to expose the injector’s functioning parts. Lift the filter out screen, clean any accumulated issue from it using a detergent solution and rinse with clear water. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the hands nozzle in the injector throat, then unscrew the throat in the injector body. Clean any accumulated issue in the parts with soap solution and very clear water rinse. After inspecting the parts to make sure that they are clean, reinstall them in the opposite order of elimination. Replace the cover plate and gasket and tighten the rods. Turn the water back on to the softener, plug from the unit and run it through a complete softening cycle.

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Finding an interior leak is dismaying, but just because your house is on a slab, it doesn’t automatically indicate a foundation issue. While the leak might be related to a cracked slab, whether it’s around a wall, then the chances are good the water is coming from someplace else. The key is to get the origin of the leak fast so that you may make your own repairs or contact the right professional for your job.

Water Supply

The first place to check for a leak is at the water supply system. Turn off all faucets and appliances that use water, like the dishwasher and clothes washer, then pull the cover off the water meter to determine if the dial is moving. It’s a fantastic idea to leave the cover off for an hour or two. If the dial goes, the leak is at the water supply system and it might be a pinhole leak, a loose fitting, a broken line or a damaged valve. In many slab homes, the main waterline enters the house, and personal supply lines run through the walls to every fixture. If the leak is around a utility room wall, then a fast check for water in the utility room tells you if the issue is with the waterline under the floor. If the leak is at another area of the house, a few drywall removal is to be able to pinpoint the specific spot.

Leaking From Above

Water has a sneaky way of trickling down — sometimes quite a distance from the point where it enters the house. If you have ruled out the water supply system, then the next suspect ought to be the roof. Harsh UV rays can create rubber port “boots” fragile after a couple of years, leading to cracks which let rain seep to the house. Other defendant areas include rusted flashing and missing shingles. Water which enters the roof may trace rafters and then wall studs to the floor before seeping out around a wall. If you found the leak after a recent rain, check the loft to see whether you find damp rafters, joists or insulating material, which might indicate the water is coming out from the roof.

Interior Drains

If the leak worsens after use of a specific fixture like a sink or dishwasher, it might be a issue with that fixture’s drain. Check under sinks first, but if a drainpipe is leaking from a link in a wall, then you have to remove some drywall to find it. Leaks in bathtub and shower drains are more difficult to reach and repair, but it’s standard practice to “block out” an open part around the drain when pouring the slab. If you have to get rid of a bathtub or shower, then the trap which lies under still is accessible.

Ground Water

Heavy rains and pooling water across the exterior of the slab may cause leakage between the masonry and the structural framing of the house. Some building codes require at least 6 inches of exposed masonry foundation above the soil. The yard should slope down and away from the foundation to encourage rain to operate away from the home.

Slab Issues

No homeowner wants to find a leak originating from a drain cemented at the foundation slab. If the slab shifted from earthquake action or soil movement, there is a chance it cracked a major drain. If the leaking water has a foul smell, it might be coming from a sewage drain. Fixing this type of leak requires a plumbing contractor who specializes in slab leak detection and repair. Detection might involve using a camera or infrared technology. The contractor may make repairs by tunneling below the slab, but breaking out a portion of the slab may be necessary.

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Hardwood flooring is a great investment; according to a National Wood Flooring Association poll, 99% of participating real estate agents stated there is with hardwood a house a lot easier to sell. The term”hardwood” doesn’t always refer to strong wood, though. It may also refer to engineered flooring, a made type of flooring using a hardwood veneer. Laminate flooring is also a type of flooring that is manufactured, and is made to look like hardwood.

Engineered and Laminate Flooring

The motivation for creating flooring that was manufactured originated from the price and dwindling availability of hardwood supplies species. The bulk of each board is a less expensive filler material — usually a wood or moderate density fiberboard, although Such as plywood, engineered floorboards have a laminated surface layer of hardwood. Laminate flooring is layered, but it is thinner than engineered flooring, and also the surface is a print. Unlike strong floorboards planks don’t require glue or nails and float onto the subfloor; this is also true for some manufacturers of engineered wood flooring.

Holding Up to Moisture

One of the key reasons homeowners select floorboards over wood ones is that the former function better in high-humidity climates or even in conditions, such as over concrete slabs. Solid wood swells when it shrinks when it dries and becomes wet, and this motion can produce ailments that bring about warping. This stability isn’t a characteristic of all floorboards, and this makes them more secure, although some engineered planks are constructed in layers like plywood. Engineered and laminate planks using an MDF core can be more vulnerable to moisture.

Comparing Look and Value

It is rather tricky to tell if there is a flooring wood by by considering ityou normally have to examine the cross section of one of the boards . It’s easy to recognize the broader, more routine pattern of combined lines between planks and a flooring, on the other hand, due to its plasticized surface look. Consequently, a flooring may not offer the same boost in value to your home as an engineered or solid flooring. Concerning initial costs laminates would be the least expensive, followed closely by wood floors that are solid and engineered.

Maintenance and Refinishing

Solid and Solid wood floors typically have similar finishes that last for 20 decades or more, and maintenance that is similar is required by them. However, refinishing choices vary, After the end wears out. You can’t refinish laminate floors at all — they have to be replaced when they wear out or sustain damage. You ought to be skeptical about wearing through the laminated coating on the surface while you can sand an engineered flooring; you can only do a limited number of refinishes within an engineered flooring one or two. You can refinish a flooring that is good times, so by contrast, it’s the longest life expectancy.

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