Category: Home Painting

How to Stain a New Picnic Table

Staining your picnic table allow it to blend with your outdoor decor, but that is not the principal intention of stain. As it’s formulated to resist sunlight and moistureand stain helps your table last longer. To get this benefit, however, you need to cover the table thoroughly.

No Sanding Needed

Examine the table for moisture content by sprinkling a few drops of water on the surface. If the wood absorbs them easily, the table is dry, but should they bead up, wait a few days before sealing the wood with stain. Once you’re sure the wood is dry, wipe the table with a moist rag, since new wood tables are often coated with a fine layer of wood dust. There should not be any requirement to sand your new table.

Stain the Underside First

Lay plastic sheeting on the floor and turn the table over — you will need help for this. Stain the undersides of their camel and benches, in addition to the legs and legs, by applying the stain using a paintbrush. Wipe off any stain that’s been consumed after about 5 minutes using a rag to keep color uniformity. Turn the table erect when you are done with the bottom and stain the cover of the table, then the seats, in addition to the borders and end grain. Allow the table dry overnight before applying it.

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Painting Over Powder-Coated Steel

Among home paint jobs, painting over powder-coated steel may seem the most frightening for the do-it-yourselfer. This work really does not need to be this tricky. A little basic prep work and cautious paint choice will likely have your powder-coated steel cabinets, furniture and entry doors seeming bright and brand new in no time.

Prep Work

If you’re able to, move the work to a tidy, well-ventilated space, or outdoors. Clean powder-coated surfaces thoroughly with all-purpose cleaner. If grime or grease remains, use mineral spirits and also medium steel wool to eliminate it. If the surface has peeling or delicate paint — it scratches with a fingernail — eliminate it with a putty knife or a razor blade scraper. Smooth the remaining paint and then give it a scratchy texture with 220-grit sandpaper. Sand rusty surfaces to bare metal, then wipe with mineral spirits.


Wash, powder-coated surfaces don’t require priming. Prime rusty surfaces with metal primer. Prime, too, surfaces with stubborn grease and grime. You don’t need to prime the entire job, just the affected regions. Pick light, light or dark primer to approximate the value of your top coat. Spray primers result in fast work and fast drying. Use exterior primer for exterior surfaces, such as steel entry doors.

Spray Painting

Painting with cans of satin, satin or gloss spray paint makes it easy, fast work that rather approximates the appearance of new powder-coated steel. Read the label instructions regarding temperature recommendations, drying times and other details about your goods. Holding the can 10 to 12 inches in the work, start spraying the surface off before spraying the true bit, moving the could from 1 end of the work until you’re off the surface in the opposite end. Repeat for complete reporting. Use the paint in several thin layers to cut back sags and drips.


If you can not move your work to a ventilated place, spraying may not be sensible. Use latex paint along with a synthetic brush, applying the paint in long, smooth strokes. On steel entry doors, use a brush and exterior latex paint to approximate the painted finish of a wooden door. Brush “with the grain” — where the grain could be about a wood door — for a realistic, hand-painted wood appearance. On cabinets and furniture, brush on doors and sides, and horizontally — or left right — about tops and drawer fronts.

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Suede Paint Technique for Interior Walls

Faux paint techniques allow you to make an illusion in your walls. Paint any fake finish, from marble to wood grain into Venetian plaster, with textured paint and easy tools. Cover a library, bedroom or dining room wall using a synthetic suede finish by employing a specially textured paint along with specific application patterns, or even a synthetic finishing technique that mimics suede. The results play and absorb with light. Soften the wall colour, and give the feeling of a brushed leather surface. Anyone who has painted a wall before can utilize this technique. But open the windows and make sure adequate ventilation before you begin.

Brush Technique for Faux Suede Paint

Clean and stain walls before starting. Fill cracks, holes or gouges with plaster and sand smooth when dry. Wipe down grimy or dusty walls using a dry cloth and then a moist sponge or a sponge soaked in a 1:1 ratio of a water and vinegar solution.

Tape the edges of this washed dry wall before priming it using latex interior paint. A light shade prime coat will not affect the shade of suede paint you choose.

Apply the first coat of suede paint using a paint roller. Start by edging in the corners and the angles in window and door frames and the ceiling with a little brush. Work in small sections to roll up the suede paint on the wall using a medium-size roller, applying paint in overlapping V-shapes. Combine each section with the previous one since you cover the whole wall.

Allow the first coat to dry thoroughly. It will look somewhat streaky and patchy — exactly the way you want it to appear. Apply another coat using a 3-inch brush, starting in one top corner and then working outward to cover the wall.

Crisscross your brush strokes as you apply the second coat — quite important. Make your pattern random and blend each “X” to the wet paint next to it. Both irregular paint application patterns help to create the illusion of texture to the wall when the paint is dry.

Eliminate the painter’s tape while the paint is still wet so you do not risk pulling away any dried paint using the tape. Let the wall dry for 24 hours.

Adapting Ragging Technique to Create Faux Suede

Modify a rag technique to approximate the appearance of suede paint on your walls, using ordinary wall paint. Prepare the walls as you would for any paint job: clean and stain them, filling any cracks or holes with plaster and sanding the dried patches smooth, and tape the edges along ceiling, baseboards and trim having low-adhesive painter’s tape.

Prime the walls using a soft, matte shade with hexagonal inside paint. Neutrals allow the topcoat colour dominate the wall; a coloured prime coat tints or reveals through a thinned surface coat. Let the primer dry before ragging the next coat of paint.

Thin matte latex paint to make a wash concerning the consistency of glue to produce the suede effect. Brush the wash above one little section of the wall at one time, moving the brush in overlapping massive X-shapes to prevent a uniform appearance.

Bunch a clean rag and then dab it in the wet wash fast, before the paint has a opportunity to dry. Use a light touch the rag will eliminate some of this paint, leaving a softly mottled, irregular finish. Change the direction of this rag and shake out and re-bunch the rag to prevent creating a discernible pattern on the wall.

Overlap the next coat of wash, taking care that you don’t produce a thick or hard border of shade where the two sections meet. Continue ragging every new wash of colour over the whole wall. Change to a new clean rag if the one you’re using gets overly saturated with paint.

Eliminate the painter’s tape while the paint is still wet or moist to prevent any disturbance of this faux finish. The water-based paint finish should be thoroughly dry within hours.

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DIY: How to Eliminate House Mold

Mold, like any other part of character, has its place in the surroundings. Outdoors, it breaks down dead materials, but indoors, mold may pose a danger to the health of a house’s inhabitants. Eliminating mold completely at a home environment is practically impossible. Reducing an present mold infestation into the point where it poses a danger, as well as avoiding outbreaks of new mold, is possible. It’s possible to complete the removal process successfully utilizing a methodical DIY strategy.

Find the present mold in your home via a thorough search of all regions of the property. Begin your search in moisture-rich regions where the mold is the most likely to increase, such as baths, kitchens and the cellar. Sniff as you hunt, trying to detect musty odors. Focus on any areas where water damage has occurred or where there has been flood. Start looking for any area containing black or white stains on walls, ceilings or floors. These slightly fuzzy-looking spots are usually signs of mold development.

Measure the moldy area. A place over 10 square feet in size will probably need expert cleanup; less than 10 feet, and you’ll be able to clean it yourself.

Seal the area that you’ll be cleaning to prevent mold spores from traveling from room to room. Cover air vents with plastic sheeting, securing it in place with duct tape, and open windows in the room.

Move furniture at the cleaning area into a room without mold in it. Place moldy items such as newspapers or books into a plastic garbage bag for disposal. Bag all moldy fabrics for later cleaning.

Wear safety goggles, nonporous gloves and an OSHA-approved particle mask when cleaning.

Wash the surface with a warm water detergent solution, including 1 cup detergent and 1 gallon water, using a sponge. Allow the surface to air dry and then wash it again using a bleach option of 1/4-cup bleach added to 1 gallon of water. Don’t dry the surface to allow the bleach time to disinfect. Wait 20 minutes following the bleach wash and then replicate. Wait another 20 minutes and then wash a third time with bleach. After 20 more minutes, wash the surface with a borate-based detergent solution consisting of 1 cup detergent into 1 gallon of water. The borate detergent wash prevents a reoccurrence of the mold. Don’t wash the borate detergent in the surface.

Use normal cleaning methods to provide the rest of the room a thorough cleaning. Wash the carpeting and mop floors in the area.

Clean moldy fabrics in the laundry as per normal before returning them to the room. Wash the surface of the furniture removed from the room using a detergent-based warm wash for hard-surfaced items and a cloth cleaner to get fabric-covered furnishings.

Remove the cause of the mold, repairing any water damage or leaks. Control the humidity amounts of humid homes by installing insulation that prevents the buildup of moisture inside your home.

Verify the areas of infestation frequently after cleaning. If mold returns, check behind the walls for mold infestation that is hidden. Call a professional to manage mold inside the walls.

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