Ideas for Succulent Planters

Succulents are drought-tolerant plants that survive by storing water in their fleshy leaves. The cold tolerance of succulents varies considerably, and many varieties won’t withstand frost. Otherwise, succulents adjust to any climate provided that they have good drainage. Succulents current opportunities for experimentation and creativity because they thrive in almost any container, including teapots, urns, soup tureens, hollow logs, cooking pans, old boots and tennis shoes.

Dish Garden

A dish garden full of a miniature landscape created with succulents is simple to care for because the plants require no fertilizer and hardly any water. Proper containers include a pan, pottery dish or other container measuring approximately 2 inches deep. Promote drainage using a potting mixture consisting of one part sand and 2 parts potting mixture. Plant modest, slow-growing succulents like miniature agave, jade, aloe or echeveria. Interesting stones or figures complete the landscape.

Strawberry Pot

A strawberry pot is perfect for planting a variety of vibrant succulents. Fill the container with a fast-draining potting soil like regular potting soil mixed with sand or a potting mixture formulated especially for cacti and succulents. To include interest, plant a different succulent in each pocket of this container and two or three taller varieties in the container’s leading. Succulents that function well in a strawberry pot contain red stem portulacaria (Portulacaria afra), black knight echeveria (Echeveria affinis “Black Knight”), coppertone sedum (Sedum nussbaumerianum), flapjack kalanchoe (Kalanchoe thyrsiflora) and striped finger (Senecio talinoides var. mandraliscae). Place the pot in a sheltered place when temperatures fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Hens and Chicks

A large bowl full of the succulent called hens and chicks (Sempervivum spp.) Adds visual interest because the tiny chicks fill the spaces between the larger hens, eventually forming a closely packed mound of texture and color. With time, hens and girls form a film of spidery white hair on the top. Any low, round bowl functions for hens and girls, and even a concrete bowl or an older, cracked urn makes an effective container. Be sure, however, that the container includes a minumum of one drainage hole in the bottom. Catch the container outdoors year around or pull it inside during cool, wet winters.

Groups of Three

Small potted succulents arranged in groups of three is a simple way to create a number of interesting arrangements. For instance, plant three succulents in three individual pots of different shapes or of slightly different sizes. The 3 succulents should vary in color and size, like two rosette-shaped echeveria (Echeveria spp.) , which develop in a number of colors, including blue, red, green, purple and brown. Change the third container with a long-leaved succulent like burro’s tail (Sedum morganianum) or pen cactus (Euphorbia tirucalli). Arrange the 3 containers any manner that pleases your eye, or place all three with a circular tray, platter or terracotta dish. Make sure each container has a drainage hole to stop stem rot.

Water Requirements

Even though most succulents are incredibly drought-tolerant, the plants benefit from occasional irrigation during warm, dry weather. Water them generously but only when their dirt is dry, and allow the pots to drain completely. The containers should never stand in water because succulents in soggy dirt develop stem decay quickly. Succulents require little or no water during their dormant period, which can be indicated by a marked decrease in their growth. Although many succulents go dormant during the winter season, some varieties, like Dudleya, a succulent native to California, are dormant during summer.

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What's a Bayberry Shrub?

Since Colonial times, wax surrounding the fruit of several shrubs from the Myrica genus has been boiled down to create fragrant bayberry candles. Though the deciduous bush generally referred to as bayberry (M. pensylvanica) rises around the East Coast just down to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 7, at least three other bayberry, or wax myrtle, shrubs flourish in warmer climates. They are all evergreen, feature aromatic leaf and prosper in USDA zones 7 to 9.

Pacific Wax Myrtle

In windy oceanfront sites, the Pacific wax myrtle (M. californica) looks like a flattened mass of divisions. But from the wind, it’s a vertical tree or tree, reaching 10 to 30 feet in height. Adaptable to either sun or shade, the wax myrtle’s new growth comes in mild green, contrasting with the ripe leaf of darker green and a waxier texture. Assets of the tree contain dense, attractive, serrated foliage and purplish, wax-coated nutlets that lure birds. The tree requires ample water to encourage its rapid growth design and is sensitive to frost.

Southern Wax Myrtle

Generally smaller than the Pacific variety, the Southern wax myrtle (M. cerifera) seldom exceeds 12 feet high. It tends to create multiple trunks, in addition to clusters of bluish-gray berries that last through the winter. A handsome plant with olive-green foliage, the tree has eye-catching bark that ranges from grey to almost white on some specimens. While getting established, it requires constant moisture, but also in subsequent years it will tolerate either drought or flood conditions. An unusually adaptable plant, it even withstands confinement within urban areas.

Swamp Bayberry

With bigger leaves and a denser look than the Southern wax myrtle, the swamp bayberry (M. heterophylla) earns its name by growing in poorer soils, which range from sand to clay, especially where water accumulates. The fast-growing tree, indigenous to the Southeast, typically reaches 8 to 12 feet. Foliage is dark green, with 5-inch leaves that are fragrant when crushed. After the waxy fruit appears, it’s small, round and contains a white to grey colour.

Landscape Uses

Taller varieties, like the Pacific wax myrtle, make excellent displays when implanted in multiples. All types can get effective hedges, whether ripped or casual. Because of the odor from the leaves, a bayberry hedge along a walkway could be a particular delight. The California native Pacific wax myrtle functions nicely as a part of woodland groups that include oaks and redwoods. With its multiple stems, the Southern wax myrtle may be dressed as a specimen plant close to your home. All three tolerate very wet locations, so they could adapt to seacoast places.

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How to Landscape with a Hedge Fence

A hedge fence defines boundaries and keeps unwanted traffic out of a yard whilst still providing the soft-scape advantages of plants. The fence is produced by planting shrubs and trees close to each other so their branches and foliage develop together and appear as a single unit. Evergreen plants deliver year-round green coverage in a hedge fence, or family fence, but a lot of deciduous shrubs can offer dense coverage even when stripped of their leaves in sunlight. Based on the hedge plants you utilize, the family fence might even have the ability to keep animals and intruders from passing through.

Incorporating a Hedge Fence

Create a wind screen and privacy hedge fence to define the borders of your back yard by utilizing tall, columnar conifers. Such conifers incorporate Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) and pyramidal arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis “Pyramidalis”). Space the hemlock plants about 2 feet apart and the arborvitae 3 to 5 feet apart.

Plant a 1- to- 3-foot tall hedge between your yard and walkways, patios or driveway to guide visitors to the hard-scapes and deter unwanted foot traffic to your yard. 1 option for this type of hedge is Japanese holly “Dwarf Pagoda” (Ilex crenata “Dwarf Pagoda”), that grows to a maximum of only 30 inches tall and doesn’t have the sharp barbs commonly related to hollies. Another option is wall germander (Teucrium chamaedrys), which grows 1 to 3 feet tall and includes corrugated leaf with pink-to-dark purple flowers that bloom from summer into autumn.

Plant a 4- to- 6-foot tall hedge screen between your front yard and the sidewalk. Utilize a frequent hedge plant such as American boxwood (Buxus sempervirens), Amur River privet (Ligustrum amurense) or English yew (Taxus baccata), each of which fills in fast with dense foliage. These shrubs are capable of growing 10 feet tall and taller so require regular pruning to keep a lower height. They fill in fast, however, providing an entire drop in only a couple of years.

Coordinate with your brand-new neighbor about planting a hedge fence to separate your own properties. If you both can agree on a drop species, then you can share price, pruning and maintenance obligations while both benefiting from the plants.

Plant a hedge using barbed plants to keep unwanted traffic out of your yard. Barbed plant possibilities contain flowering quince (Chaenomeles spp.) , red barberry (Berberis thunbergii atropurpurea) and scarlet firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea). This type of hedge can be used as a border along a wooded area to keep wildlife out or to surround your house as protection against burglary.

Include deer-resistant varieties in the hedge fence should you stay in an area where foraging deer are a frequent problem. Doing so will stop you from having to contend with deer eating the hedge’s foliage and making gaps in your fence. Lavender (Lavandula spp.) and rosemary (Rosmarinus spp.) Function well for low hedge borders while forsythia (Forsythia spp.) , heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica) and juniper (Juniperus spp.) Are leading choices for taller hedge plantings.

Plant a hedge fence of flowering shrubs should you want to add more color than the hues of green typical of most plants. Densely planted shrubs such as azalea and rhododendron (Rhododendron spp.) , limelight hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata), roses (Rosa spp.) And common lilac (Syringa vulgaris) include color and fragrance to your living fence.

Planting and Training a Hedge Fence

Dig a trench to your hedge fence plants in a location that offers enough room to accommodate the adult size of the selected plants. Dig the trench as deep as the plant root balls and twice as broad as the first planters.

Plant the plants in the trench, using the nearest possible spacing for the selected plant variety or varieties so the hedge grows dense without gaps. The plant spacing usually is 8 to 24 inches for small to large shrubs and up to 6 feet for large, coniferous trees. It can take as much as 10 years for a hedge fence to develop to maximum height, but the sides of crops fill in fast with close spacing. An alternate is to space the hedge plants a bit further apart through planting and enable them to grow in their normal form once you prune to encourage dense growth. You could save hundreds of hours spent trimming perfect boxed hedges should you embrace the organic form of the plant species.

Hard-prune the hedge plants in early spring till they’re in bloom. If they are blooming in early spring, then wait till after the blooming time to hard-prune them. Pinch the tips of the plants to induce branching close to the ground, removing as much as one-third of the total branch length. Severe pruning annually in spring and fall, during that about one-half of this new growth is removed, encourages plants to fill in fast. Also remove about one-third of this older growing stems annually to support new growth so the hedge remains dense and youthful; remove another one-third of the plant divisions each year for 2 more years to rekindle whole plants.

Shape the plants in order that the hedge fence tapers at the surface, allowing sunlight to reach the bottom and top of this hedge plants evenly. That shaping technique removes the potential for a top and thin growth at ground level.

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The way to Remove Rust on Vinyl Tile

Although vinyl itself does not rust, if tough water evaporates off your vinyl tile flooring, it also may leave a red-brown rust stain. Rust dissolves as it comes into contact with acid, however some acids may dissolve the coatings on the vinyl tiles too. Abrasives, solvents, bleaches and ammonia can all harm vinyl flooring, therefore select a mild cleaning agent rather. If you have very tough rust stains that won’t respond to gentle cleaners, oxalic acid can eliminate the rust without damaging the vinyl — but it is toxic to you, so handle it carefully.

Cream of Tartar Method

Mix small quantities of water to cream of tartar till it forms a paste. Scoop the paste onto a cloth.

Rub the paste onto the rust stains on the tile. Allow it to sit for several minutes.

Wipe the glue off the tile using a clean cloth. If the rust does not come off, repeat the procedure and leave the glue on the tile for an extra five minutes. If it still does not work, move on to a stronger acid.

Oxalic Acid Method

Wear safety glasses, gloves and long sleeves to protect yourself from the acid. If you’re using powdered oxalic acid rather than a 5-percent liquid solution, mix 10 teaspoons of the powder to 1 quart of water to generate a 5-percent solution.

Dip a cloth into the answer. Rub the rust stain on the vinyl. Allow it to sit for five minutes. Rub the spot again to see if the rust comes away.

Lay the wet cloth over the spot if the rust has not dissolved. Allow the acid work for 10 minutes. If the rust still won’t come away, wet the cloth and lay it above the spot for the next 10 minutes.

Spray the ground with an alkaline cleaner or sprinkle baking soda over the spot to neutralize the acidity. Scrub the floor with a cloth to remove the rust as well as the cleaners. Wash the floor with a sponge soaked in water, and then dry it using a clean cloth.

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How to Fix Scratches in a Rohl Fireclay Sink

Rohl fireclay sinks are designed to resist stains, chips and scratches. If the sink doesn’t require a little scratch maintenance with time, a few marks may be removed with an abrasive cleanser. Deep scratches can be repaired with a particular kit designed for ceramic and fireclay, available from the sink retailer.

Removing Scratch-Type Marks

In some instances, those marks which look like scratches have not really scratched the sink whatsoever. Metal pots, pans and utensils may leave grey or dark marks on the fireclay surface, much like the marks caused by steel utensils on some sorts of dishware. Eliminate such marks with a mildly abrasive cleaner applied with a damp sponge. Rinse the region thoroughly afterward.

Preparing for Repairs

Whether you’re certain the sink is scratched or you merely guess it is, wash it thoroughly with a damp cloth or sponge. Cleaning the sink helps determine whether the marks are real scratches or surface scuffs; it is also necessary prior to using a fireclay repair kit. Use a mild abrasive cleaner or a nylon scrub pad to remove any grime or buildup, then rinse the region again, using the sponge or cloth to wipe away any residue. Permit the sink to dry fully prior to making a repair.

Earning a Speedy Fix

Rub the edge of your fingernail over the broken areas to ensure they are seams. If necessary, mark the scratches by placing a piece of masking tape near them. Buy a fireclay repair liquid in the shade of your sink — the first retailer or producer of your sink probably carries an specific match to your sink’s shade. This kind of repair liquid is produced from a durable acrylic paint. Shake the bottle of repair fluid for 2 minutes and remove the cap to reveal the attached touch-up brush. Brush the repair fluid above the scrape, then enable the sink to dry for a complete day before applying it. Eliminate excess repair liquid with a nylon scrub pad.

Earning More Intensive Repairs

The other type of repair solution requires curing with a blue light, which can be included in the kit. Apply the fluid above the repair, press a piece of leveling tape from the kit above the repair area, then shine the blue light on it for five to 10 minutes. Peel the tape away, then sand it first with successively finer grits of sandpaper. Wipe away the dust with a damp cloth, then polish the region with a polishing paste along with a soft cloth, also contained in the kit.

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How Frequently Should You Wash Walls and Corners?

How often you wash walls and corners is dependent upon how dirty your house gets. Indoor and outdoor weather conditions give rise to your cleaning program; residences with windows that are open are subject to spring and autumn pollens and need at least weekly cleaning for allergy sufferers. Kids and pets contribute to the dirt that builds up in the smudgy fingerprints found on walls about light switches and near windows.

Vacuum and Dust First

Daddy long-legs and other spiders enjoy building webs in the corners between ceilings and walls; utilize a long-handled broom or a rounded plastic brush onto a telescoping arm to reach from the flat corners between walls and ceilings along with the vertical corners where two walls meet. Remove debris and dusty cobwebs with the brush, or wipe them with a soft mop. Pay special attention to molding, chair rails and trim. The brush and wand attachment on your vacuum make removing cobwebs a breeze. Use a little stepladder if you can not reach high enough to remove the loose debris or dust. Complete corner and wall dusting at least on a monthly basis.

Deep Cleanings

Standard spring and autumn house cleanings keeps weekly and daily cleanings to a minimal. Following the winter weather subsides, a deep-down spring-cleaning readies your home for spring and summer living, whilst fall’s head begin prepares your home for the autumn and winter months ahead when windows are kept shut up tight. In conjunction with monthly corner and wall dusting, wash walls and corners twice per year.

Cleaning Approaches by Paint Kind

Wash walls using your favorite goods, or simply clean with a warm, sudsy water soaked sponge along with a cool water rinse to remove grease from kitchens and moisture deposits in the bathroom and laundry rooms on enameled semi-gloss or shine walls. Rooms with flat paints need less vigorous cleaning methods to avoid wearing the paint: use a damp clean cloth or a moistened-with-water just soft sponge to wash flat-painted walls. Touch up paint where required.

Summer and Winter Months

Homes that are shut up in the winter and summer as a result of hot or inclement weather don’t get as much outside dirt coming in, other than the dirt tracked in by careless residents. To remain inside dirt at bay, make roommates or family members take off their shoes in the mudroom or near an entrance before coming indoors. Clean walls and corners once per month, as required. Keep dust, spiders and dusty cobwebs at bay by knocking them down with a long-handled broom weekly.

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Why Don't You Plant Wisteria Close to Your House?

The long, fragrant curtains of flowers that adorn wisteria (Wisteria spp.) Make it seem like a wonderful addition to your lawn. However, the super-fast development habit of many wisteria varieties produce the genus an unwelcome addition to land that is right by your house, or any other structure which you want to keep in 1 piece. Planting wisteria by your house isn’t something you want to do because the vines of wisteria are competitive growers that can cause substantial harm, even to homes.

Know Your Type

The wisteria genus has 10 species, with numerous cultivarsnonetheless, that the Ohio State University Extension notes which only two species are generally planted in gardens. Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda), that grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 9, has drooping white, blue, violet, or lavender bloom clusters which can reach over 3 feet in length. Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis), hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8, has 1-foot-long flower clusters in blue, purple or white, with a mix of blue and white being quite common. There’s also American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens), growing in USDA zones 6 to 9, that has smaller clusters of purple or white blooms. Wisteria is generally considered a vine, though the Old Farmer’s Almanac calls it both a tree and a vine.

Steady Destruction

Wisteria is this kind of fast and strong grower that its vines can destroy the structures where the plant is growing. Tree trunks can sustain serious harm — and thinner trunks under 10 inches in diameter can really die — from the girdling consequences of wisteria growing around the back. Houses can be torn apart as wisteria vines creep through crevices and cracks. In an article for the U.K.’s Independent newspaper in 2007, writer Emma Townshend recounted how she had found that the wisteria she had planted against her house had grown under the roof shingles, displacing enough material to cause a roof leak. The Ohio State University Extension states wisteria vines can also clog gutters.

Invasive Status

Japanese and Chinese wisteria are both considered invasive in many regions of the country. They grow so fast that they immediately take over places, pushing out native plants. They’ll also use other plants as substitute trellises, eventually killing the plants. The Old Farmer’s Almanac warns that wisteria can grow as much as 10 feet in 1 year. Wisteria plants escape cultivation easily, and you need to keep a continuous eye on the vines’ growth. The middle for Aquatic and Invasive Plants in the University of Florida notes which pieces which you have cut the plant can take root and form new plants. Nice Gardening advises American wisteria doesn’t send out suckers, and the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center says it is much less damaging toward buildings as Chinese and Japanese wisteria. But you should double-check with your area’s extension office to see if American wisteria is deemed invasive in your area.

Remote Locations

If wisteria isn’t considered invasive in your area, you can plant it away from constructions, but keep your eye on its growth. Inspect all structures which host wisteria regularly to make sure the vines have not tried to squeeze their way in between parts of the structure. If you find wisteria is choking out other plants, such as trees, then the Ohio State University Extension states to cut back the girdling vine back to the ground line and get rid of the parts of the vine that have wrapped themselves around the other plant.

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Tibouchina Species

The large, velvety leaves and vibrant purple, showy blooms have earned tibouchina (Tibouchina spp.) The name of glory blossom or glory bush. Native to South America, about 350 species of tibouchina exist, some with pink or white blossoms, but only a few species are under cultivation. Grow them outdoors in mild-winter, basically frost-free climates. In cold winter climates, grow tibouchina for a container plant that can go outdoors for the summer and inside for the winter, or as a greenhouse plant.

Tibouchina Urvilleana

The most frequently developed tibouchina, glory bush (Tibouchina urvilleana) includes 3-inch-wide flowers that are a glowing, violet-purple. Also called princess blossom, the bush contains non-woody stems to 15 feet tall and 10 to 12 feet wide, growing in a mound. Heavy flowering occurs all during the summertime, with irregular flowering at other times of the year. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 12, the plant is killed back to the ground in zones 8 throughout the winter, but usually recovers the next spring. The cultivar “Athens Blue” (Tibouchina urvilleana “Athens Blue,” USDA zones 10 through 11) contains deeper purple blossoms.

Tibouchina Grandiflora

A species with grayer, more velvety leaves, glory flower (Tibouchina grandiflora) is smaller compared to glory bush. It typically reaches 5 to 8 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide in USDA zones 9 through 11, although it can grow to 10 feet tall. Its smaller, royal purple blooms occur in spring, summer and fall in showy panicles, which can be loosely-branching clusters of blossoms, atop blossom stalks that rise above the leaf. Cut off the old flower stalks to showcase the dramatic leaf once the plant isn’t in bloom.

Other Species

Capable of being educated as a little tree and with the name glory bush, Tibouchina lepidota has regal purple blossoms that nearly fully cover the bush to get a few weeks throughout the summer. Hardy in USDA zones 10 through 11, in warm winter climates it blooms nearly annually. The taller-growing purple glory tree (Tibouchina granulosa, USDA zones 10b through 11) grows 10 to 15 feet tall and may reach 20 feet. For a tree, this is actually the tibouchina of selection. Panicles of all 2-inch-wide, purple flowers appear in spring, summer and fall. Grow it as a shrub or prune and shape it if it’s young to form a tree.

Plant Care

Reflecting their tropical origins, tibouchinas need moist but not soggy conditions and also an organic-rich, well-draining dirt. Grow glory bush in full sun except in regions with hot summers, where it conquers daytime shade. Prune the trees to keep them to shape and size after they’re done blooming; use pruning shears cleaned with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol to prevent disease spread. In spring, apply a controlled-release fertilizer to the soil around the base of the plant, evenly scattering it under the branches and out a little past the drip line. Mix it into the upper layer of dirt and water well. Use a product such as 15-9-12 at the rate of 1.3 lbs per 100 square foot of landscaping area. Tibouchina are almost pest- and disease-free. They are classified as invasive in Hawaii, in which they seed into native habitats. Remove seed pods so seedlings can’t volunteer should youn’t want tibouchina to propagate.

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Growth Stages of Fox Tail

Foxtails (Setaria spp.) Inhabit disturbed areas such as agricultural land, orchards, roadsides, ditches and gardens; yellow foxtails (Setaria pumila) will even spread to yards. These summer annual grasses are among the most severe of the summer annual weeds due to their abilities to successfully invade — and take over — many types of habitats.

Seedling Stage

Foxtail seedlings are tough to spot and even harder to identify since the distinctive seed head has not developed yet. They begin parallel to the bottom with their leaves developing in their thick stem. Seedlings can vary in appearance depending on species. The foxtail’s first true leaf reaches nearly 1 inch long and 1/8-inch wide. Once germinated, the plants can reach maturity and develop seed within 40 days.

Old Acids

Many foxtails grow in loosely gathered clumps; a few, however, may erect a single stem. At maturity, foxtails can reach over 4 feet tall. Leaves branch near the base of the plant; mature plants have thick, pointed leaves which spiral slightly. Leaves often have slightly hairy surfaces. Old foxtail plants might cover a large area, especially in disturbed areas where the soil is ideal for their growth.

Seed Heads

Mature foxtails possess a distinguishing, fuzzy-looking tree head which changes in colour depending on species. Green foxtail (Setaria viridis), for example, often has green seed heads, but deep, purplish-red isn’t uncommon. This species typically blooms May through November. Yellow foxtail has yellowish seed heads which reach 2 to 5 inches long. Yellow foxtail blooms June through December. Giant foxtail (Setaria faberi) blooms June through November with 3- to 7-inch seed heads. The seed heads often turn tawny or yellowish in fall.

Reproductive Cycle

The seeds blow in the wind, latch onto the fur of animals or are otherwise removed from the plant. Seeds can remain dormant for nearly three years. The seeds will germinate almost immediately if the conditions are appropriate — between 68 and 95 degrees F, beginning the life cycle over again for all these species that are competitive. Because of this, foxtails are especially harmful to spring-sown crops.

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Is a Chinese Elm Tree Softwood or Hardwood?

The Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia) rises in United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5b through 10a. It produces colorful autumn leaves at the northernmost portion of its growing variety but stays evergreen when implanted further south. It makes an superb landscape tree as it has little invasive potential, doesn’t create litter and doesn’t attract unwanted animal traffic. The Chinese elm is a tree.

Hard or Soft?

The names hardwood and softwood can be deceiving, and they don’t really refer to the consistency or strength of the timber. Even though the wood of the majority of softwood trees is less dense than hardwoods and often contains more air bubbles, whether a tree is a hardwood and softwood actually depends upon the way that trees reproduce. Softwood trees are known as gymnosperms and reproduce by producing cones that contain pollen. After the end spreads the pollen to other trees, a bare tree is produced and dropped onto the ground to generate a new tree. Pine trees and other evergreen conifers reproduce in this way, which is what classifies them as softwoods. Hardwoods, however, are known as angiosperms. These trees reproduce by producing seeds housed in nuts or fruits and usually spread their feces by flowering. Most deciduous trees reproduce in this way and are hardwoods.

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